There's also word the expected launch of Homeworld 3 is the fourth quarter of 2022. The accompanying post on Fig goes into detail on the creation of this unit (and even includes a response to say it will be changed based on feedback). Kotaku spotted that developer Blackbird Interactive had piped up on Fig, the crowdfunding platform on which Homeworld 3 raised $1.5m (£1.08m), with a 28-second video that shows a brand new unit called the Railgun Frigate firing at and blowing up another ship. I WOULD PERSONALLY LIKE TO THANK THE FOLLOWING PEO.Remember Homeworld 3? The long-awaited next instalment in the much-loved sci-fi real-time strategy series was announced in August 2019, and since then.The pegs are notched and grooved to help make sure they stay in place and don't simply spin out. The clear pegs will also help lighten up darker tinted clear torso's without affecting the color. I'll be putting figures together by Sunday. I just got the last clear urethane drop in and am now making the other parts of Roboid/Deimos. I tried to figure out a way to make it a U-paint-it kit but the rivets needing setting make that a trifle hard if you don't have a squeezer.Īnyways.here's pics of what I have been doing back flips over all morning. Painted figures will be exactly that and will be offered later on at a lower price. If it is it is if it isn't it is what it is. Painted figures will in no way have any consistency to 5 mm. The one exception to this will be the painted figures. Past figures will still have the solid color pelvis since they are already done.but all figures made from this point on will have acrylic clear arm pins and acrylic pegs. It doesn't really add a lot to the over all production time and if anything saves me the job of sanding plus it stays on size. Now every peg including the pelvis will have 5 mm pegs. In an effort to get 5mm interchangeability I have worked the 5 mm acrylic rod into other facets of the figures. I been quiet the last couple of days.nothing to worry about. Another reason why you want the master to be secure in the first half of the mold.īut for some items, imbedding is the perfect answer if you can remove the clay bed without disturbing the master. You want to brush it lightly to make sure no clay is sticking to it. It makes it easier to remove the clay bed after. It takes longer, but I prefer to build up and around the part being molded. Personally, I do not like imbedding parts into the clay for that reason. You don't want that master to come removed or loose in the silicone before pouring the second half of the mold. This way, the master will stay in the silicone. The one thing I HIGHLY recommend.is when orienting your master.choose the orientation that will hold the master the best once the first half of the silicone cures. We cant bend the mold to aid in the release of the cast. So we can put our mold split line where ever we want. Right: Resting on the bed.īecause we are using silicone, we don't have to subscribe to the half and half notion of molds. Half the mold is imbedded into the clay bed. This is where you have built up your piece so that it is elevated above the bed. Very light impression in the clay to hold it in place.ģ) Elevated. This is where you seat your piece directly on the clay or other medium. That's where you take your piece and imbed it into the clay or whatever medium you use to make your mold bed.Ģ) Resting. I would say enclosed (smush) molds (no sprues or venting) have 3 types of molds you can prep for.ġ) Imbedded. In doing so, I needed to make 3 different beds for the 4 different heads I am making. But I am making new molds for the next figures. have no idea what they call various types of Smush molds. This sure is doing wonders for my self discipline. ![]() I have 15 figures left to fit and assemble and then they all have to be detailed. So where am I at this point? At least 3 weeks away. Every time I think.that's it.that's as good as I can make it.something else makes itself known that makes it worth my while to incorporate into the building process. It seems like every time I put out a figure its just a hair better than the last one as better ways of doing things become apparent. I am doing my best to make these figures as interchangeable as possible. You can only go so small on the amounts to be mixed. So I have to waste a small amount of resin for a few drops to fill a hole. Its another reason I have gone to using 5mm Acrylic rod wherever I can so I have some standard for 5mm interchangeability. The holes DID NOT shrink and in fact in 2 cases the holes got bigger. ALL the peg holes in the thighs and in the chest pieces have to be filled in and drilled back out manually. It seems that while I was able to perfect some molds, others are opposing the laws of physics. I have a little hiccup that is costing me ALOT of time and extra resources.
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